Visited on 14 February 2025
Akira Back offered up an experience greater than the sum of its parts. Yes, I did come to do a little reconnoitre of the competition, as my hotel was opening a restaurant not too dissimilar, a little under half a mile away, but I suppose, at the end of the day, I was really in it for the food.
Surprise one: in the weeks before the reservation I was called up and if I was aware it was valentines night (yes, I do own a calendar) and if I wanted to order their Valentines menu, called “Love Below London”, on account of the cavernous dining room being sunken into a beautifully decorated basement beneath the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair. The menu looked like a great way to try the Korean-American cuisine that Chef Akira Back is famous for. I also opted in to the wine pairing.
Surprise two: I know it’s been the best part of a year, but I recall very little of the food, which is strange. That’s not to say it was less than wonderful. The tuna pizza, a signature Akira Back dish, was sumptuous, unique and refreshing. The sushi and sashimi selection was staged in a rainforest on ice and by far the freshest I have had in London. We romantically fought for the last scraps or lobster Tempura with yuzu hollandaise.
Unfortunately, the whole menu was rushed out at once, meaning that for all the joy the stone bass and A5 Hokkaido Wagyu brought us, it was cold by the time we got around to trying it. Given that it was Valentine’s Day, we closed with a tasty but clichéd strawberry rose for dessert, and a special cake from the kitchen, as we were celebrating our anniversary too.
Surprise three: for a destination restaurant, that is to say, one that trades off a big name, situated in a five star hotel, where many go to be seen, not to be served, the service was exceptional and genuinely warm. Our sommelier was a joy, guiding us through the wine pairing and offering – shock of shocks – complimentary top ups! Service was attentive but not pretentious, with thoughtfully naff touches like a rose for the lady.
In the weeks after our visit, Akira Back offered up a final surprise; my hotel being able to poach its incredible general manager who was clearly behind so much of its magic.
The Valentine’s Day menu was priced at £two hundred and fifty per couple, and wine pairing was £seventy per person.
The food thing. 
Leave a comment